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Ordóñez Suárez, D., Higuera Marín, M. E., & Raigoza Díaz, C. (2023). Design factors in the premature disuse of clothing: an approach from the product life cycle phases. Kepes, 20(27), 105–144. https://doi.org/10.17151/kepes.2023.20.27.5
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Authors
Daniela Ordóñez Suárez
Perfil Google Scholar
Miguel Enrique Higuera Marín
Carolina Raigoza Díaz
Abstract
The extension of the lifetime or time of use of garments is a way to face the increase in the environmental impact in the fashion industry, derived from the acceleration in demand and the discarding of products. The objective of this study was to identify the variables involved in the premature disuse of casual clothing in order to be intervened by design throughout its stages. This, through a qualitative approach in which interviews were applied to representatives of companies and consumers in the city of Bucaramanga and its metropolitan area as well as observations in the digital sales environments of national brands. The foregoing with the aim of identifying actions and statements of brands egarding durability and its relationship with the purchasing criteria of the consumers, as well as the motivations for retention and discarding of garments. The findings show that the focus of the efforts is on the robustness of the materials and the timeless garments based on minimalism, the use of manual and artisan production technique as well as the construction of an aesthetic identity of recognizable brand. For its part, comfort represented the main purchase criterion as well as the criterion for the decision to retain or discard the product, while quality or robustness did not present a major influence in these scenarios. These results allow visualizing opportunities for innovation through the application of design based on empathy with the users.
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References
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Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366
González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.html
Goworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021
INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/
Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127
Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540
Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.org
Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349
Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060
Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699
(López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79
McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026
McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, 27(4), 215-223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2019.07.005
Mink, P., Bay, S., Petrizzi, R. y Gill, P. (2015). The Why of the Buy: Consumer behavior and Fashion Marketing. Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.
Naciones Unidas. (12 de abril de 2019). El costo ambiental de estar a la moda. Noticias ONU. https://news.un.org/es/story/2019/04/1454161
Niinimäki, K. y Armstrong, C. (2013). From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(3), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737
Niinimäki, K. y Koskinen, L. (2011). I love this dress, if makes me feel beautiful! Empathic knowledge in sustainable design. Design Journal, 14(2), 165-186. https://doi.org/10.2752/175630611X12984592779962
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. y Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Orozco, J. A. y Ferré, C. (2012). El ADN de la marca. La concepción de sus valores intangibles en un contexto dialogado. Signo y Pensamiento, 31(61), 56-71.
RADDAR, INEXMODA y SECTORIAL. (2021). Observatorio Sistema Moda Julio 2021.
https://www.inexmoda.org.co/informe-julio-2021/#:~:text=En%20julio%20el%20gasto%20en,el%20mismo%20periodo%20de%202019.
Rathinamoorthy, R. (2019). Circular fashion. Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 13-48.
https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102630-4.00002-9
Saldaña, J. (2009). The coding manual for qualitative researchers. Sage.
Stark, J. (2018). Decision Engineering. Product Lifecycle Management (Volume 3): The Executive Summary. http://www.springer.com/series/5112
UN Fashion Alliance. (2021). The Clothing and Textile Industry Today. https://unfashionalliance.org/
Vijaya, V., Aparanjini, D. y Lahari, G. (2017). Impact of Gender on Consumer Purchasing Behaviour. IOSR-JBM, 19(8), 33-36. DOI: 10.9790/487X-1908053336
Wang, Y., Tian, H., Sarigöllü, E. y Xu, W. (2020). Nostalgia prompts sustainable product disposal. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 19(6), 570-580. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1832
Whitson-Smith, J. (2019). Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 9(1), 109-124. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.1.109_1
Wijetunga, D. (2020). “Throwaway” consumption in a consumerist society: Evidence from a developing country. Business Strategy and Development, 3(1), 55-63. https://doi.org/10.1002/bsd2.78
WRAP. (2017a). Love Your Clothes. https://www.loveyourclohes.org.uk
WRAP. (2017b). Sustainable clothing: a practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality. June.
Zafarmand, S. J., Sugiyama, K. y Watanabe, M. (2003). Aesthetic and Sustainability: The Aesthetic Attributes Promoting Product Sustainability. The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0
BlakSip. (2020). Reporte de la industria: el e-commerce en Colombia 2020.
Brydges, T. (2018). “Made in Canada”: Local production networks in the Canadian fashion industry. Canadian Geographer, 62(2), 238-249. https://doi.org/10.1111/cag.12400
Capuz-Rizo, S. F. (1999). Introducción al proyecto de producción. Ingeniería concurrente para el diseño de producto. Editorial Universidad Politécnica de Valencia.
Ceballos, L. M. y Min, S. (2020). Product experiences of clothing attachment in baby boomers in the United States. Fashion and Textiles, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-0206-0
Chapman, J. (2009). Design for (Emotional) Durability. Design Issues, 25 (4). http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/25/4/29/1714666/desi.2009.25.4.29.pdf
Chapman, J. (2021). Meaningful stuff: Design that lasts. The MIT Press.
Cobbing, M. y Vicaire, Y. (2016). Timeout for fast fashion Timeout for fast fashion. GREENPEACE.
Connor-Crabb, A., Miller, K. y Chapman, J. (2016). Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New. Fashion Practice, 8(1), 22-43. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1147806
Cooper, T. (2010). Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society. Routledge.
Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. y Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity: Guidance on Increasing the Active Life of Clothing. WRAP Working together for a world without waste.
Cox, J., Griffith, S., Giorgi, S. y King, G. (2013). Consumer understanding of product lifetimes. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 79, 21-29. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.003
Degenstein, L. M., McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., Wakes, S. J. y Dunn, L. A. (2020). Impact of physical condition on disposal and end-of-life extension of clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(6), 586-596. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12590
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation e IDEO. (2017). The Circular Design Guide. https:/www.circulardesignguide.com
Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810x12774625387594
Fletcher, K., Grose, Lynda. (2012). Fashion sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King Pub.
Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366
González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.html
Goworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021
INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/
Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127
Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540
Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.org
Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349
Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060
Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699
(López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79
McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026
McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, 27(4), 215-223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2019.07.005
Mink, P., Bay, S., Petrizzi, R. y Gill, P. (2015). The Why of the Buy: Consumer behavior and Fashion Marketing. Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.
Naciones Unidas. (12 de abril de 2019). El costo ambiental de estar a la moda. Noticias ONU. https://news.un.org/es/story/2019/04/1454161
Niinimäki, K. y Armstrong, C. (2013). From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(3), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737
Niinimäki, K. y Koskinen, L. (2011). I love this dress, if makes me feel beautiful! Empathic knowledge in sustainable design. Design Journal, 14(2), 165-186. https://doi.org/10.2752/175630611X12984592779962
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. y Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Orozco, J. A. y Ferré, C. (2012). El ADN de la marca. La concepción de sus valores intangibles en un contexto dialogado. Signo y Pensamiento, 31(61), 56-71.
RADDAR, INEXMODA y SECTORIAL. (2021). Observatorio Sistema Moda Julio 2021.
https://www.inexmoda.org.co/informe-julio-2021/#:~:text=En%20julio%20el%20gasto%20en,el%20mismo%20periodo%20de%202019.
Rathinamoorthy, R. (2019). Circular fashion. Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 13-48.
https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102630-4.00002-9
Saldaña, J. (2009). The coding manual for qualitative researchers. Sage.
Stark, J. (2018). Decision Engineering. Product Lifecycle Management (Volume 3): The Executive Summary. http://www.springer.com/series/5112
UN Fashion Alliance. (2021). The Clothing and Textile Industry Today. https://unfashionalliance.org/
Vijaya, V., Aparanjini, D. y Lahari, G. (2017). Impact of Gender on Consumer Purchasing Behaviour. IOSR-JBM, 19(8), 33-36. DOI: 10.9790/487X-1908053336
Wang, Y., Tian, H., Sarigöllü, E. y Xu, W. (2020). Nostalgia prompts sustainable product disposal. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 19(6), 570-580. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1832
Whitson-Smith, J. (2019). Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 9(1), 109-124. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.1.109_1
Wijetunga, D. (2020). “Throwaway” consumption in a consumerist society: Evidence from a developing country. Business Strategy and Development, 3(1), 55-63. https://doi.org/10.1002/bsd2.78
WRAP. (2017a). Love Your Clothes. https://www.loveyourclohes.org.uk
WRAP. (2017b). Sustainable clothing: a practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality. June.
Zafarmand, S. J., Sugiyama, K. y Watanabe, M. (2003). Aesthetic and Sustainability: The Aesthetic Attributes Promoting Product Sustainability. The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0
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